Cozumel

Weep no more for the teardrop-shaped Cozumel.

The coral island has seen some hard times, sure - like Spanish invasion, death by smallpox and a flailing economy - but in the decades since it appeared on the tourist map, the island has for the most part been enjoying its status as a calm but charming island that profits from its prime diving reputation. Known as Ah-Cuzamil-Peten (Island of Swallows) it is Mexico's only Caribbean isla, as well as the country's largest and most populated island.

Thanks to a Jacques Cousteau documentary on its world-class reefs it has been a favorite international diving destination since 1961. It is literally swimming with diving sites - about 100 have been identified within 5km (3mi) of Cozumel, and at least a dozen of them are shallow enough for snorkeling. Unless you're doing one or the other of those activities, however, there is probably not too much reason to stay here long - unless, of course, you're just looking for a gorgeous spot to put your feet up.

Cozumel has long been subjected to comparisons with Cancun, the splashy resort just 40 mi/65 km to the north. It used to be easy: We liked Cozumel better. The island had a laid-back, sedate atmosphere, and its superior fishing, snorkeling and diving gave it a definite edge. Today, we still say we like Cozumel better, but the answer doesn't come as quickly to our tongue. The snorkeling, diving and fishing are still great, but no one would mistake present-day Cozumel for the sleepy backwater it once was.

One reason is cruise ships: The island is a popular stop and can play host to as many as six large ships simultaneously. When more than one ship looms on the horizon, restaurants, bars and shops fill with day-trippers, and everyone, from shopkeepers to bartenders, gets a bit stressed by the crowds.

Still, it remains a great place to visit, especially for those interested in exploring its coral reefs on scuba and snorkeling outings. We also like the pleasant atmosphere of the island's only town, San Miguel. Those with enough time for a day trip will find the Maya ruins of Tulum and Chichen Itza within striking distance.

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