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Accessible only by boat and definitely off the beaten track, the luxurious Te Tiare epitomizes barefoot elegance. All 41 over-thewater, beach and garden bungalows are very spacious—among the largest we've seen. Each has a terrace with a sheltered space enclosing lounge chairs that invite you to relax, and an outside shower that beckons you to bathe beneath the stars. The Polynesian-style bungalows offer spacious bathrooms (some with jacuzzi bathtubs), a walk-in closet, large living rooms and bedrooms, TV, minibar, fan and air conditioning. The main building, a combination restaurant/lobby/bar/boutique, is situated in a traditional meetinghouse with a fabulous roof. Other nice touches include direct access to the lagoon from the over-the-water bungalows and the fact that all the buildings face west so as to capture the spectacular sunsets. A small private beach is tucked away on the nearby lagoon. The food here is excellent—the hotel has one of the best chefs in the country—but service can be spotty. Free activities include canoeing, kayaking and snorkeling, which is excellent here. The hotel offers free hourly transportation by boat to Fare, a ten-minute ride.